i went to see the ugandan gorillas in 1999, but paid for it as part of a “gorilla” safari through a travel agency in cape town, south africa. i forget how much the trip cost via the agency, but i remember that we had to pay an additional US $500 in CASH to the ugandan government once we met up with the trackers (this was known ahead of time, when we booked the trip). you can probably roll into kampala, uganda without any plans ahead of time, then just ask around for trackers, but you’d probably run a much higher risk of getting ripped off. plus, i’m pretty sure you’ll still have to pay that $500 (or more now). I understand this is a primary source of income for the Ugandan government.