Istanbul, Turkey. We had just completed a seven day cruise of the Mediterranean which had been preceeded by a couple of days in Athens, Greece. I had a spinal tap just prior to flying to Athens so I was ill and unable to take advantage of much that Athens had to offer, but felt good for the few days in Instanbul prior to the flight back to the USA.
And I was fully aware that if this was not my final trip, it was certainly my final one where I would not be substantially confined to a wheelchair. I still had some walk in my legs, very slow and tiring and subject to severe cramping and pain, but the suckers still worked. And with the assistance of a cane for stability, I worked the hell out of them, I would head out by myself and would just walk and walk, away from the tourist crap, deep into the city.
I spoke no Turkish, but communication was easy. I had a huge smile on my face and was enjoying myself immensely. And the residents picked up on that and my difficulties and there was what seemed a welcome mat put out for me at every turn. At a tobacco shop, I bought some mini-cigarillos and was offered a chair for a rest. Several men were playing a card game and were very animated. I didn’t understand the game or what they were saying but I found myself laughing with them. One of the men went into the back of the shop and returned followed by another man who poured me a cup of strong Turkish coffee as a token of friendship I was told by the second man who spoke a bit of English. I, in turn, shared with them the German cigarillos I had purchased in Athens. I enjoyed the coffee and a smoke as Turkish music played on their radio and announced that I had more walking yet to do. I thanked them for their hospitality , shook hands with all and hit the roads again, deeper into the city, with no idea where the hell I was or where I was going or even giving a damn…this was a walk I was determined to continue and wished would never end.
Istanbul is a beautiful city, the people warm and friendly and the food marvelous. My walk took me to a coffee shop, an art gallery, a restaurant and another coffee shop. I collapsed into a chair on the sidewalk at that last cofee bar. They were concerned and wanted to get me some medical attention. I convinced them I was fine and ordered a Turkish coffee, very strong. And strong it was, sweet and darn near chewy. The gentleman that had expressed concern brought me an ashtray, lit my cigarillo and accepted the one I offered him and sat next to me. I expressed how much I loved his city and the people. I’m not sure he understood what I was saying but he smiled back at me and we shared a laugh watching some kids at play near-by.
I was very buzzed by all that wonderful strong coffee, but that buzz did not transfer to my legs. They were done and had it. As I rose my knees buckled and I collapsed back into the chair. Before anyone got excited, I announced that I was fine but that I would appreciate it if they could arrange a taxi for me. I don’t know how they got that taxi. I saw one of the guys that was in the shop hop on a bike and ride quickly down the street out of sight and figured he must have gone to do it. But the owner had gone back into the shop and may have phoned, but did return with one more coffee, which I hardly needed but enjoyed nonetheless.
It would be several minutes, but there it was, a taxi as requested. I got up slowly to find the shop owner on one arm and the driver on the other. I shook hands with the owner. He clasped my hand with both of his and said something in Turkish. The driver asked where I was headed, to which I responded The Hilton. My walk was over. It would be the last meaningful walk of my life.